It seems that for the last few years; we have found ourselves in Big Sky Country the first few weeks of October. THIS TIME– we were so, so ecstatic to bring along my mom & her sweet boyfriend! Their first visits to Idaho, Wyoming, & Montana EEEKKK!!! Weather permitting this go- around, we were also allotting more time in all areas & focusing on Going- to- the- Sun- Road in Glacier National! SO, this particular itinerary offers even more than our previous blog posting… If you are at all considering a trip to Grand Teton National Park, Yellowstone National Park, or Glacier National… You will want to keep reading!!!!
DATES: SEPTEMBER 28th- OCTOBER 8th– COVID EXTRAVAGANZA
Our last trip up to these parts was at the butt end of our multi- state road trip trek. We did not have near the time we wanted to explore these amazing parks, and actually landed in Glacier National the day after its park closure for the winter season. TIP: DO KEEP IN MIND! Summer trips will be chaotically busy. Jam packed with cars/ people. Late May- June will give you the best opportunity for wild animal sightings, as they are really out and moving. BUT this also means that hiking trails are more likely to be closed due to bear sightings. September is an excellent month to plan a visit as it is dying down from the tourist bustle, and we personally love those last glimmers of activity in LATE September/ very first week of October as everything is closed down by October 7th (give or take).
FLIGHTS: I, of course, tracked our flights via the Hopper App for 8 months prior to our planned trip. Watching the prices to select the most affordable dates. We ended up booking via Priceline sometime in July for our dates. Leaving San Antonio, TX –> Jackson Hole, WY.. Flying back from Kalispell, MT –> San Antonio, TX was only $678 PER COUPLE. Two people flying round trip for $678 total. NUTS. So cheap.
RENTAL CAR: We typically never rent anything larger than a full size car for our mountain trips. We plan around weather conditions as much as possible. We booked a full size car for this trip, too, and in retrospect we would have booked an SUV for the four of us + luggage… So, if you are traveling with a group or plan on doing many off- roading adventures- definitely splurge for the SUV! I find myself utilizing Alamo rental services A LOT. I always have had great experiences with them, and they continuously offer great prices. **NOTE: Any time you pick up in one location and drop off in a different location- you will be charged a bit more for the rental. So just know that ahead of time** Do carry/purchase the additional car rental insurance. Third parties will offer insurance, but those will not actually even cover anything in the case of accident/ injury. We find it best to ask the host about their insurance offers when picking up your vehicle! This additional coverage usually runs us around $100 && is worth it while in the mountains! TOTAL COST: $474 + $130 insurance for rental.
Here we go!!!!!
DAY 1: Monday, September 28th
Our flight in landed in Jackson Hole, WY, at 3:30 p.m… Guys, the flight into this airport alone is an experience. It’s freaking beautiful, and warrants some amazing views of my beloved Tetons *insert teary eyes* Be gentle with yourselves on your first day after flying. JET LAG IS REAL. For this reason, we planned an easy evening of roaming around downtown Jackson Hole for dinner, and then catching an early night in at the Air BnB! <– more on this in a second! We were extremely surprised to find that there were a lotttt of people out and about. A) COVID B) how late in the season we were visiting. There were far more people this time than our last year’s visit in early October. Jackson Hole stays booming with tourism in the non-winter months, so do anticipate a wait for dining. We went with the old Jackson Hole Drug Store- it was decent enough. NOTE: If you are planning to dine in Jackson Hole for multiple days- budget a bit extra, as it’s priced around tourism & wealth here!
Downtown Jackson Hole cannot be beat when the sun goes down. Their Christmas lights are gorgeous & all of the typical draws are gorgeous!!! && we cannot go on without mentioning our favorite little souvenir shop- Lee’s Tees on the corner. You will find the best t- shirts here!!!!
AIR BNB #1:
We have never actually stayed on the Wyoming side of Jackson Hole/ Grand Teton National. We find it to be far too expensive, and we have an obsessive love for Idaho just over the mountain pass. Like… We will live there in the near future, obsession *sweating emoji*. We recommend looking at stays (VRBO, Air BnB) in Tetonia, Driggs, Victor, Idaho! We have stayed as far as Tetonia, but LOVED being closer this time in Victor, ID! I won’t lie… the drive in during high tourism or high traffic will take an hour through the mountains. BUT early mornings/ late evenings will take 35 minutes or so? From Victor to downtown Jackson Hole! The drive is freaking beautiful. If you plan to visit during winter season (or during approximate snowfall DO NOT stay in Idaho) the mountain pass will be non passable.
We balled out on Air BnBs this trip. We focused the majority of our budget here, and likely will never splurge to this degree again. It was pricey… So unless your budgeting for these expenses or dividing costs amongst a group of people- don’t count on these specific Air BnB rentals- they do be pricey as helllllllll.
This rental was incredible. Incredible. The sauna was a lifesaver for our aching muscles after long hikes. As you read… You will discover that Kam and I approached this vacay much differently than mom & Mike. LOLOLOLOL!!
Day 2: Tuesday, September 29th
Mom and Mike decided to spend this day sleeping in && lounging around the rental- lavish luxury. What an adult thing to do. Hehe! Kam and I on the other hand… Had big plans to do one of my most coveted hikes in Grand Teton National. The Delta Lake Trail. Y’all… ASS. KICKER. We got our asses kicked. But. It proved to be one of my most favorite days of my life. I will never forget it. If you’re an outdoor enthusiast. Hiker. Photographer. Exercise-y person. Read this next part. It’s callingggggggggg.
You will want to get a start on this Delta Lake Trail NO later than 7 am. Just in my humble opinion. You can, of course, always start later but enter at your own risk. We were parking and packing at the trailhead by 7 am. Thankfully. People were entering as late as 2 p.m. but this seems sketchy to me.
Delta Lake Trail is not an “officially” documented trailhead, persay. It’s not regulated by the park agencies in other words. For this reason… We recommend being at least semi- experienced in hiking/ mountain navigation. If you’re not though- there are plenty of sweet hikers on the trails that may be willing to let you tag along with them. You will want comfortability with hiking for this trail. Period.
NOTE: Always check your AllTrails APP on your phone prior to setting out on a trailhead! Don’t forget to grab a map or two at the park entrance with the ranger & ask about any notable trail closures or bear sightings for the day, as well. This will keep you abreast on their morning findings/ closures! We loveeeee the AllTrails app and utilize it alot to research trails, and use it while on the trails signal permitting.
There are multiple approaches to this trailhead. We did the Lupine Meadows Trailhead access point. This is a public parking lot at the start of a trailhead. So, your sites should be set on the ‘Amphitheater Lake’ trail. You will follow this primary trail until we break away to get to Delta Lake. Take it easy your first stretch of the trail, as you will need the energy for the switchbacks. Switchbacks are those zipper like trails. They go back and forth increasing in elevation. A single “switchback” is from point A to point B. I’ll attach a photo below to better explain…
It is important to know that the Delta Lake Trail entrance is on the FOURTH point of switchbacks. So, you’ll walk your first line of the switch back, and count FOUR points from there. At the fourth point you’ll probably see people sliding down the incline to the trail. It’s a steep, step ladder thing down into the woods essentially. This is the start of your hike. Hehe. The real trouble. You’re already at about 8300 ft elevation at this point. DRINK LOTS OF WATER AND STRETCH!!!! The trail is easily followed until you get to the boulder fields. Yes. Boulder fields. It is straight up boulders. Think of these fields as cut across points. You’re not climbing UP them, you’re trekking acrosssss them. Previous hikers have left little stone “temples” along the boulders. You’ll see them. This is a rough guide on how to follow the field to stay on track. Look for the rock temples. Take it slow here.
After your second boulder field… This one being more treacherous than the first… TAKE A BREAK. Take a break for what lies ahead. The toughest part of the entire trailhead. Keep going. It will be well worth your efforts, but you will want to quit right about here. I won’t even lie. Your trek from here will quite literally be straight the F up. Straight up hill. PACK SO LIGHTLY… Don’t load down your pack with crap. Pack some nuts/ snacks, plenty of water, first aid kit, and definitely ACE bandage in case of blisters or falls. Other than that, pack so light. You will go up quite a stretch of steep incline, mostly loose rocks/ trees. YOU ARE SO CLOSE!
You will reach Delta Lake at your own pace. Don’t count on any previous reviews you may read… Some people do the entire trail in 4 hours, some do it in 7… Either way, this view is unmatched. It quite literally brought the strongest emotions over me. I cried. Just God. Beauty. Nature. It felt almost unfound or untouched in many ways? A freaking glacier lake. At the very top of the Tetons. It does not get much better. You are at about 9500 ft elevation here. ENJOY IT. We lounged on our private rock- far from the water’s edge, and enjoyed our light lunch, took our shoes off, mended our feet, and just rested for several hours. Beautiful.
PACK IN AND PACK OUT. Leave no trace. NO TRACE. Pick up any trash you can stand to carry out that may have been left by other visitors. We must preserve these sites, guys. I personally am not fond of those who choose to swim in the lakes… their ecosystems are so fragile and not everyone is respectful. I would urge you to observe and photograph, but never be intrusive of the water.
Going down is so much easier… but does still take time, hence why we recommend starting so early in the day. I would not want to be caught out here at sundown or through the night. Remember… Park Rangers don’t regulate Delta Lake trail past the cut off, so just be mindful of safety and daylight! ALWAYS TRAVEL WITH BEAR SPRAY EASILY ACCESSIBLE AND KNOW HOW TO USE IT! Many of our Air BnBs let you borrow their bear spray, or it can be purchased for $50 at local shops, but cannot fly back home with you.
DAY 3: Wednesday, September 30th
Grand Teton is by far my favorite national park. So much of it can be seen and enjoyed from the safety and comfort of your vehicle. Although, we strongly encourage you to push yourself and get out there on the trails- we also understand that sometimes vacations are for relaxing WHAT?!! This day is much better suited for those who prefer ease and comfort so stay tuned!
If you are, in fact, coming from the Idaho side… Just through the Teton Mountain Pass is a little town called Wilson. Here is where you’ll want to grab fuel as you get to half a tank! GPS might offer an alternative road around downtown Jackson Hole.. to save time due to traffic. BUT. HEED MY WARNING. I would not take this shortcut. The road is never maintained and is sooooooo ROUGH. Moose- Wilson Road is the shortcut. It has pot holes the size of a freaking house. In a rental it is just sketchy. Stick to the main roads.
Taking highway 191 through downtown Jackson Hole, you’ll go through the main entrance for GTNP. Several miles past the Jackson Hole Airport will be the turnoff for Mormon Row. You’re looking for Antelope Flats Road on the RIGHT. Mormon Row is such a historical gem, it cannot be missed on a visit! My personal favorite is the first residence you come upon. I call it the “little pink house”. Be still my heart. It’s gorgeous and offers amazing views of the Tetons. There are many more stops along Mormon Row as you travel back into the community! Enjoy and take the time to read the signs at each stop! SO INTERESTING!
Getting back on the main park road, you will take a right and continue Northeast! Our eyes are set on Snake River Overlook! There are several turnouts along the way that warrant amazing views. I had great luck at Snake River Overlook, and actually had the turnout to myself… Able to observe a momma moose and her babe crossing the river from a distance. How incredible!?! The views are fantastic nonetheless.
Continuing North on the main park road- we plan to make the entire loop of Grand Teton National Park, so this journey will come full circle! You can also do this entire loop over several days if you’re spending multiple days in the area. We recommend 3-4 days here in this area on your journey!!! Keeping LEFT at the “Y” at Moran Junction will circle you around towards Jackson Lake Junction. Jackson Lake is so incredibly gorgeous! Continuing South now on Teton Park Road, we are headed towards Jenny Lake Lodge!!! I will offer two variations of this next part!
If you would like to hike for some views of the mountains and Jenny Lake: this is your paragraph! Parking at Jenny Lake Lodge can be packed, but is worth it to wait out a parking spot for your short hike! This places you close to the trailhead- String Lake Trailhead! This Trailhead is long in its entirety. We have never hiked the entire lake loop, but instead hike to the Inspiration Point which is a quarter way into the trail. This trail comes with breathtaking views!!! We have done it each time visiting this area!!! It’s an easy out and back hike to this point! Follow your map!! You should be passing exactly between Jenny Lake and String Lake heading towards Inspiration Point! We hear that Hidden Falls just a short trek beyond Inspiration Point is also worth the extra time!
If you would like to drive through with less hiking: This is for you! Instead of stopping to park at the Jenny Lake Lodge keep traveling South towards the Jenny Lake Visitor Center. This is at the southern most end of the Jenny Lake (which is quite large mind you)! Parking at the visitor center will allow you quick access to the shuttle boat! The shuttle boat will take you across Jenny Lake to the above mentioned Inspiration Point without the foot work!!! It’s a great alternative to hiking! We actually should have done this as our muscles were DEAD from our adventures yesterday!! *SIGH*
Mom and Mike had reservations in Idaho to play golf at the Teton Reserve Golf Course in Victor, ID, so we headed back to allow them time to enjoy their evening of golfing. I am not a golfer, but they seemed to thoroughly enjoy the course and recommend it to those who enjoy leisurely golfing! This was directly across the highway from our Air BnB there in Victor!
Dinner was in Victor this evening at the local pizza joint! Definitely just check out Google Maps for local spots with decent reviews! There were several little mom & pop joints for dining!
Wildlife Brewing in Victor, Idaho
Day 4 & 5: Thursday, October 1st– Friday, October 2nd
TRAVEL DAY!
Checking out of our little home in Victor and getting an early start on the day to travel up towards Yellowstone National Park! Nora’s Fish Creek Inn in Wilson, Wyoming, was literally our favorite our last trip here in 2019!! Due to COVID though, she was open only on weekend for limited hours.. WE DEFINITELY ENCOURAGE YOU TO EAT HERE FOR BREAKFAST! Their banana nut bread was out of this freaking world. We bought an entire loaf, and had planned to buy more if it weren’t closed this go around. Anyway. Eat here. it’s fabulous. Nora’s Fish Creek Inn- 5600 WY- 22, Wilson, WY, 83014
Following highway 191 north, up through the National Parks is the only way I would take to get to Yellowstone. You are missing too many views any other way. This drive is phenomenal. **NOTE: THIS ENTIRE PARK HIGHWAY CLOSES IN NOVEMBER THROUGH THE REMAINING WINTER)– From Jackson Hole, WY, to Old Faithful Inn in Yellowstone takes about 2 hours (88 miles)! Much of your drive will follow along Jackson Lake- enjoy! As you approach the south entrance of Yellowstone, you will have another park entry. Obtain a new map and guide here!!!
WELCOME TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK
Yellowstone National Park actually doesn’t take as much time to explore as one might think! We are always surprised by how quickly we can navigate the park. But… no time in the world is enough time for this historical beauty. It’s truly a wonder of the world. You will be so blessed during your time here. Ugh.
Our first stop coming up has always been Old Faithful. However, you may be interested to explore more of the Yellowstone Lake. We have never ventured over to this Eastern area much, so that may be something you’re interested in?! Old Faithful will take you towards the Western portions of Yellowstone! Old Faithful Lodge was closed due to COVID while we were here, but the park itself was still busy! We will always recommend visiting the Inn to view its enormity and history inside. It’s gorgeous and eerie at the same time! My heart… Old Faithful shows out on a “timed” schedule and there will be several signs posted for its next show. There’s plenty to see in the meantime in close proximity! Enjoy the trails!
Leaving the lodge to head North on the main road.. You are quickly coming up on the Upper, Midway, and Lower Geyser Basins! The Midway Geyser Basin is actually the famous Grand Prismatic Springs (something we consider a must see during your time here). It’s a POPULAR tourist attraction, so anticipate that chaotic parking! As you’re approaching this Midway (Grand Prismatic) Geyser, you will see a large, dirt parking lot on the left side of the highway… you will see a pretty, iron bridge here, too (pictured below). This parking lot is fine if you WANT TO HIKE TO THE SPRINGS. This lot will lead you to a trailhead that turns into the upper geyser viewpoint (you will hike a good distance up to the viewpoint). The views are worth it! IF hiking is NOT your thing… skip this parking lot entirely, and keep driving the main road around the corner. You will likely see cars parked along the side of the highway. It is safe to park here if you are out of the way. You cannot miss the Grand Prismatics! They can often be covered in a thick fog which could be blocking your views of the intense colors of the pools. Even on foggy days, the upper viewpoint offers great views of the pools (with the hike of course).
The view from the upper viewpoint 
The iron bridge from the parking lot that will lead you around to the upper viewpoint!
Continuing North on highway 191 you will come to a sort of “T” in the road. Left will take you to the West Yellowstone entrance. Right on highway 89 will take you to where we were headed! Canyon Village. From Grand Prismatic Springs to the Upper Yellowstone Falls of Yellowstone River takes about an hour (37 miles). At Canyon Village you want to head South onto Grand Loop Road (closed November- late April for winter) to go to the breathtaking Yellowstone Falls. This waterfall is out of this world intense. There are, of course, several approaches to getting a good view of this beauty. Upper Falls (the farthest point) places you right over the top of the waterfall, looking down, as well as the ‘bring of the lower falls’ viewpoint. I personally prefer the views from ‘lookout point’! This gives you a full frontal view of the falls! You will want to spend some time here, I think. It’s gorgeous. There is a tough hike just around the corner from this lookout (within a few steps), that offers a more up close view of the falls. Maybe not even “up close” as much as unobstructed view. We opted out of this hike to the lower viewpoint, because it had several, several, steep grades && would have definitely taken an hour or more out and back with our sore ass muscles (literal sore ass muscles).
Heading back West from Canyon Village- you have a 12 miles drive to Norris Point. The main road will “T” again, and you will be taking a right on North Highway 89- our eyes are set on Mammoth Hot Springs. The area of Mammoth Hot Springs is definitely my most favorite area of Yellowstone! Enjoy this hour drive to the Northern most parts of Yellowstone National Park- it’s God’s country. The little town on Mammoth houses again… SO MUCH HISTORY. So much history. It also houses the park headquarters, and an entire family of lazy elk. Yes. ELK. Elk are plentiful here, and can be seen lounging around in the various yards all over this little town. It’s safe to park in appropriate parking and walk along the town, but be mindful… Park Rangers are there and if they see you approaching the wildlife, feeding the wildlife, or entering prohibited areas- the ticket will be HEFTY. Keep a safe distance! *smile* NOW. THE GOOD STUFF. Literally leaving Mammoth to go towards Mammoth Hot Springs is the most beautiful scenery ever. I cannot even with the views of the valley here. UGH. Mammoth Hot Springs is a neat stop with an easy drive through in your car set-up from the upper basin, or you can hike along via the lower parking lot. I actually loved driving through!
Pools in 2019 during our roadtrip 
These were the hot spring pools in 2019. 
2019 pools at Mammoth Hot Springs. 
The same pools as above in 2020. 
Not near as much color this trip. 
Such a stark difference in the landscape in a year.
So, again, we never stay within the national parks themselves. We like to see the more remote areas within close proximity! Your Air BnBs will be heavily populated throughout Gardiner, Montana (which we will discuss) and then our very favorite Emigrant, Montana! HIGHLY RECOMMEND STAYING IN EMIGRANT! Your drive along the Gardner River will likely be one of your favorite parts. We spend the next several days just pulling into multiple turnouts along the river, because the views are what the soul needs… Exiting Yellowstone National at the Northern Entrance, you will see the Roosevelt Arch (how cool), and the sweet town of Gardiner. We are always entertained by the plethora of wildlife roaming about town, and the views are impeccable. Plan to stop here several times throughout your next few days in the area. We ALWAYS eat dinner at Wonderland Cafe & Lodge. We found this diamond in 2019 & immediately fell in love. It was one of our main reasons for traveling back to the area (just kidding but seriously)! Their elk chili mac, elk chili, jalapeno cornbread… TO DIE FOR. SO FREAKING GOOD. You have to go. They also have a great souvenir shop just up the street! Wonderland Cafe and Lodge- 206 Main Street, Gardiner, Montana, 59030
JUST A GLIMPSE OF YOUR VIEWS THROUGH MAMMOTH, GARDINER, AND EMIGRANT!
We recommend filling up your tank here in Gardiner, and stopping at their little grocery store just downtown (you’ll see it off the main road) to grab some stuff to cook at the rental. We like offsetting costs by cooking at the rental one or two nights during the trip! Eating out obviously adds up quickly. We got supplies for spaghetti night at the house! YUM!
AIR BNB #2
Emigrant, Montana. Home away from home. This area of remote mountain town is especially beautiful. It will be the most peaceful part of your trip thus far. Away from any sounds and away from the hustle and bustle. You almost never want to leave. We scored a cabin in the hills for this stay. The cost would hurt your soul, but my God was it worth every single penny. AGAIN. If you’re with a group- these prices would be much easier to swallow. DO IT DO IT DO IT! We would spend the next two nights here while exploring all of Yellowstone National Park. You cannot go wrong! Keep in mind. That anywhere you want to drive from here to the park- will take an hour or MORE. So allot time for driving! Enjoy this turnouts along the Yellowstone River here!
We hear SO many things about Cooke City- Silver! This is an area farther east, and rides the state line! We have never made the trek over unfortunately, but have big plans to focus on this area SOON. Beartooth Highway is at the top of our bucket list! If you have extra days set aside for Yellowstone, definitely do some research and put this epic drive on your list!!! It’s totally doable! Beartooth Mountain drive was about 2 hours one way from our location.
DAY 6: Saturday, October 3rd
TRAVEL DAY!!!
After two extremely relaxing and slower paced days in Emigrant exploring Yellowstone National Park… We are heading out for our next destination. Now… We know it’s a big ask to say we are going from Yellowstone National Park ALL THE WAY UP to Glacier National Park. It is indeed a lot of driving.. It will take up half of a day just getting from one point to the next. BUT WE HIGHLY RECOMMEND IT. It’s the trip of a lifetime, and gets you the most bang for your buck. From Emigrant, Montana to Whitefish, Montana is about 6 hours (354 miles). Bad to some, doable for others. You decide. But this next segment will be covering Glacier National Park. BUCKLE UP!
Arriving in the town of Whitefish, Montana, just in time for check-in and dinner gave us time to get settled at the lodge and make supper arrangements. There’s not a shortage of shopping, eating, or activities in Whitefish! We prefer staying in Whitefish versus Kalispell, because you’re so much closer to the National Park and the general environment of Whitefish is so relaxing! We opted for the Lodge at Whitefish Lake over an Air BnB for a few nights- again to offset some costs! Air BnBs can be ridiculous guys. You have to do your shopping and research before throwing money at one! Rest assured that you can count on the Lodge at Whitefish Lake for your stay in this area! It was fairly priced and was a great location! It’s up to you!
Our double queen room was fine for the two couples, but it might be worth it to invest in rooms for each couple so everyone can have their own space! The sizes of their rooms are spacious and everything was 5 stars in our book! We cannot say enough good things about the service here, and the bar down in the main lobby is perfect for an evening of drinking/ looking over the lake!
Dinner for our first night in Whitefish was mountain Italian spot- Ciao Mambo. DEFINITELY make reservations in advance for evenings you want to dine here! It’s small but freaking delicious. DELICIOUS… You’ll be splurging but do the splurge honey. Do the splurge. On money and carbs. I had the penne pasta all vodka- perfection. Pollo con formaggio with pasta- delicious. Fettuccine alla rustica- so good. *KEEP IN MIND- if they mention that it’s a spicier dish. Take their word for it. It’s SPICY. Like… almost unbearably spicy* I am a bit of a tiramisu connoisseur *sigh* and this tiramisu was a true Italian dish. VERY GOOD. Ciao Mambo- 234 2nd Street East, Whitefish, Montana, 59937
We spent the evening in the pool/ hot tub at the lodge… Their second tower building (which is where we stayed) across the tunnel from the main lobby offers a more private (less busy) indoor pool and hotub! Fancyyyy.
Day 7: Sunday, October 4th
WELCOME TO GLACIER NATIONAL PARK!
Catching a Sunday morning breakfast at the Swift Creek Cafe just downtown before our day of easy exploring… Swift Creek Cafe is a small brunch type nook! Their food is off the chain! Be sure and ask for extra sugar and cream for your coffee if you like it sweet- mountain coffee is strongggggggg as hell *wink*. Their eggs benedict is supposed to be the best like…ever- try it!!! Swift Creek Cafe- 307 2nd Street East, Whitefish, Montana
Mike is a huge Cowboys fan so he wanted to watch the game and drink some beers to start his day! Of course, we obliged and dropped the boys off at the Bulldog Bar! We stop here each time we visit the area and really like the lowkey environment! Mom and I were able to get our shopping out of the way. So many adorable shops located in downtown Whitefish. It’s totally safe to stroll the streets and pop in the little shops! My personal favorites are the Mum’s Floral & Home flower shop, The Montana Scene clothing store, and Meriwether (Meriweather has the most adorably, hilarious gifts). It’s wildly inappropriate just how I like it.
I so wanted to experience the Big Mountain activities (ski lift/ zipline) BUT they close every year on September 20th- opening of ski season. So, don’t plan on any Big Mountain activities if you’re visiting late September or any time during October- November. NEVER FEAR THOUGH! You’re in freaking Glacier National- there’s not an end to the things you can do. Our personal favorite? Lake McDonald. Lake McDonald is that beautiful, rainbow rock lake picture that you see surfacing social media all the time. YES IT IS REAL. I am about to drop the inside on this spot. Keep reading!
The drive from Whitefish to West Glacier is about 30 minutes?! Don’t forget to obtain a new park map/ guide at the entrance!! Grab several in fact, you will need them. Just through the West Glacier entrance you will quickly approach Apgar Village Lodge– this lodge is at the bottom tip of the beautiful Lake McDonald. We think it offers some of this best views of the lake (rainbow rocks)! In season, you can rent kayaks to paddle around the lake as you like! We love sitting on the water’s edge, skipping rocks, and just enjoying the views.
This spot will be the STARTING point for all of the days to come basically. This is the very beginning spot of the famous Going to the Sun Road (we missed so much of in our previous trip due to inclement weather). Going to the Sun Road is the best… It’s a must do when visiting this park, BUT approach with caution. It is very fluid to the weather conditions, and the weather conditions are always changing in these parts. You will not be allowed to access it fully if it’s snowing/ icey. And we honestly don’t recommend you accessing the mountain pass if it’s raining heavily as the roads are terribly dangerous even in ideal conditions. We don’t tackle this road TODAY- that’s tomorrow’s fun *wink*
Any time you’re leaving Glacier National along highway 2- you will pass by a hidden gem… Huckleberry Land. It’s THE PLACE! Kamron will even tell you it’s one of his favorite places. Which makes me laugh because it’s actually quite a cheesy little souvenir shop, but they do have something incredible to offer… Huckleberry pie and a huckleberry shake. DEAR LORD. That huckleberry shake is worth the entire trip all on its own! We also buy their world famous huckleberry BBQ sauce by the bottles. Literally. We buy as many bottles as we can handle to check in our stow away luggage, because it’s freaking delicious. Huckleberry Land- 8730 US- 2, Hungry Horse, Montana, 59919
Day 8: Monday, October 5th
Full day of Glacier National Park <3
I would just like to preface this next bit by saying- NO time in Glacier National is enough time. This place is out of this world beautiful… Note, that it’s not my personal favorite as far as parks go because it’s always SO, SO packed with people. You can offset by visiting as late into the season as you can stand (i.e. late September/ early October). It is worth noting that your in park villages & visitor’s center close October 7th-ish for the winter season. This does not mean that the road itself closes, just a lot of your public access points. ANY parts of the Going to the Sun Road can close at a minute’s notice due to weather or poor road conditions- so keep a super close eye on the national parks page online for updates! I am afraid if the road is closed that you won’t get the full experience of this incredible park. BUT NOT TO FEAR! WE EXPERIENCED ALL THE THINGS THIS TRIP SO KEEP READING!!!
Remember Lake McDonald viewed from Apgar Village that we talked about up above?! The starting point for everything… We are starting our day navigation wise from this point! The earlier you start, the more you get to see! Going along the main park road headed north you’ll be hugging the banks of Lake McDonald for several miles. There are so many turnouts along the way that will draw you in- enjoy it! We stopped randomly several, several times and found incredible little nooks of nature. Your first “major” trailheads on the way in will be Avalanche Creek to Avalanche Lake, and the famous Trail of the Cedars (we conquer this trail in a few days) KEEP DRIVING ON!
The trees had completely transitioned to beautiful fall foliage by the time we arrived (I wish I could share videos on here), but we were catching the butt end of the change and the leaves were beginning to fall away. THE MOST BEAUTIFUL VERMONT VIBES Y’ALL! As you get farther into the GTTSR (Going to the Sun Road)- you will notice that your elevation gains and the sharp mountain curves are increasing in severity and frequency. Take this drive slowly and intentionally and ALWAYS look for hikers, bikers, and other vehicles coming around turns. I cannot emphasize enough how slow to take this drive. If there are bikers in the roadway- GIVE them the road. You’ll find a time to get around them, but give them the road. *common sense stuff but I have to say it* *sigh* OKAY. Back to the goods…
I personally think you should drive the road in its entirety your first day and then work your way backwards on hikes! This way- you’re not having to drive alllllll the way inward each day moving forward. We started this way and felt it really worked out well! Our eyes for today are set on Sunpoint Nature Trail– it was literally the last point we could access on the road this year! Sunpoint Nature Trailhead is essentially a large parking lot, but it’s the starting point for our out & back hike to the St. Mary Falls. This easy hike will warrant THE BEST views of Saint Mary Lake- so gorgeous. This trail is short at 1.7 miles out and back, but feels long if your muscles are exhausted so be gentle with yourself. We actually didn’t make it all the way to the falls (St. Mary Falls at the end of the 1.7 trail we are on), but we caught so many amazing views and other falls along the way that it was not considered a waste… From the Sunpoint Nature Trail parking lot, you will take the stairway going down toward the lake and follow the trail RIGHT- trail signs will point you towards St. Mary Falls. Your first surprise falls you’ll approach about 0.5 miles in is Baring Falls (a small falls but a gorgeous one) this is right there with Sunrift Gorge. We hiked on another mile further on our way to the St. Mary Falls. You will gain some elevation along this portion of trailhead. I couldn’t tell you why we didn’t continue on other than feeling the ache of sore muscles from previous hikes (we should have conditioned). We turned back. BUT DON’T WORRY. Y’all can totally finish the hike. It’s doable! You can also approach St. Mary & Virginia Falls from the main road- going back the way you came in on the park road about 1.5 miles you’ll see the turnout & small parking lot labeled St. Mary/ Virginia Falls! The falls can be approached from this entry point, but we still require several miles of hiking for the views. *NOTE: USE YOUR ALL TRAILS APP FOR NAVIGATING THESE TRAILS*
St. Mary and Virginia Falls is a 4 miles out and back trail gaining 452 ft in elevation… Signs will tell you 2.9 miles, but it’s actually closer to 4 miles. The very beginning and the very end near the falls will be quite steep so take it easy and step intentionally. We hear that St. Mary Falls is MUCH more worth the time than the Virginia Falls, so make your own assessments of this!
Kamron and I spent the next few hours just taking various turnouts that looked appealing and slowly taking in the views of the enormity of this place… Remember to exist here. Take the time to unwind. Put the phone down. I have to remind myself of this often, “Be here for yourself, Saidie.” We would spend the next few days hiking and exploring further, so no worries on missing something! *wink*
Mom and Mike had spent the day golfing at the GORGEOUS Whitefish Lake Golf Club. Mike raved about the quality of the course, not to mention the awesome views as you play. So, if this is something you’re into. GO FOR IT. They also discovered a hidden gem that we might not have otherwise found. The club’s restaurant. The steakhouse of all steakhouses. Apparently, this is the place to eat. MAKE RESERVATIONS IN ADVANCE!! Expensive? Yes. Best steak you’ve yet to eat? Probably. It was so, so, so good and high quality, guys. You won’t be disappointed. Splurge if you can!
Finish your evening with drinks at the Whitefish Lodge Bar with lake views, and soak in the hot tub to prepare for the upcoming hikes! *chef’s kiss*
Day 9: Tuesday, October 6th
SURPRISE WE ARE CHANGING LOCATIONS! So… in retrospect I think we would have stayed our remaining days here at the lodge in separate rooms. But, hindsight is 20/20. I had a private apartment reserved for our final two days in downtown Whitefish! It was an adorable apartment with 2 bedrooms and a nice living area. It was so affordable and extremely cute, but the lodge was treating us so well!
Air BnB #3
Booked thru VRBO.com: Whitefish Condo @ 119 Lupfer Avenue, Whitefish, Montana
Our eyes are set on Hidden Lake Overlook at Logan Pass for the day! This is an extremely popular, hike traffic location & you’ve likely seen pictures shared on social media. The drive from Whitefish to the Logan Pass public lot takes an hour and a half or so. You cannot miss it as it’s an extremely large parking lot (usually packed with people) and the visitor’s center looks like a 60’s diner style restaurant. *NOTE: Their restrooms at the Logan Pass center are DISGUSTING. Approach with caution* Remember to use your All Trails App to assist in trail navigation as needed! It’s worth noting that this trail typically isn’t even open to visitors until July, so it’s season is actually very short. It takes that long just to even get some of the season’s snow to melt away… No matter when you visit, there’s sure to be a large crowd. The parking lot is typically full by 0700 a.m. so plan accordingly.
This path is actually STEPS (wooden steps) as seen below… I think it would be easier if it were just a dirt trail but… ya know. It’s a 2.9 miles out and back trail gaining 567 ft in elevation. It feels quite strenuous after all of those steps, but you can do it! In fact, this is a super family friendly trail. Lots of small kiddos were able to tackle it, and we met the cutest elderly couple on the way that was conquering it! The overlook itself views the lake from above, but there is a way to access the lake at eye level. This is almost always closed due to “bear activity”, I personally just think that the parks are attempting to protect the landscape from tourists stomping around. Good for them! I think they should keep it natural and sacred at all costs!
We went back up to St. Mary Lake (the farthest most accessible point in the park at this time) where we had spent much of yesterday. Mom and Mike needed to see the incredible views of the lake! Parking at Sunpoint Nature Trail again, we went down to the water’s edge this time and spent time sitting on the beach. Relaxing is an understatement.
Again, take your time traveling back down and take all of the turnouts that your little heart desires. Our last trip in 2019, we did not prepare for the ever changing weather conditions of this northernmost Montana landscape, and thus missed out on Going to the Sun Road. We DID, however, have full access of the lesser visited East Glacier. East Glacier is nestled against Flathead National Forest and Lewis and Clark National Forest to the farthest Eastern portion of Glacier National Park. Taking highway 2 southeast from Apgar Village we traveled 58 miles (1 hour of driving) to the East Glacier entrance with our eyes set on the famous Two Medicine entrance. This area of Glacier almost feels even more remote in many ways? View our previous blog for alllllll of the info on this location of Glacier! It was actually totally closed down during our current 2020 visit. Due to COVID closing down the Blackfeet Indian Reservation (the reservation has total control over this side of the park). Browning, Montana and all of East Glacier was totally inaccessible this visit. During normal circumstance we would recommend visiting the Two Medicine Lakes, as well as traveling far North to the Many Glacier Entrance (only accessible from Babb, MT) far East. Swift current Nature Trail at Swift current Lake is somewhere we craveeeee to visit, but it almost feels like the most difficult place to access in the park as it has been closed every single time we have visited. It’s so far north that it’s almost always affected by inclement weather. Swift current Nature Trail is the starting point to the treacherous Grinnel Lake Glacier hike (not for the weak or untrained). We also hear a lot about Bowman Lake which is located at the northwestern portion of Glacier. It appears that much of this journey would be along the the unpaved mountain roads. I have noooo knowledge on how to get there or what that would entail. The farther north you get into the park, the more remote it gets.
Day 10: Wednesday, October 7th
FINAL DAY
Breakfast this morning was at Loula’s Cafe which had raving reviews everywhere I looked. We actually were able to walk from our condo to Loula’s downtown which was so “Whitefish” of us! I will be honest… I was not impressed with Loula’s in its entirety. The building is older and was kind of clammy & hot temperature wise. There was a swarm of flies that they couldn’t seem to get rid of. The diner was absolutely clean and the service was great, it was just underwhelming! Spare yourself the visit and eat at the Swift Creek Inn across the street again (YUM!)!
I mentioned earlier that we would approach the Avalanche Creek and Trail of the Cedars– WELL TODAY IS THE DAY! From the Going to the Sun Road you’ll quickly approach these trailheads just past Lake McDonald. These parking lots were by far the most packed we have encountered! You’ll see the narrow parking along the main road & you’ll likely not find a spot here, keep your eye’s peeled for the paved drive to the rightttttt. This park road will take you back into a little visitor’s center with additional parking. Ensure that you’re in public access parking! Use the restroom here if you need to (or don’t need to) there won’t be anywhere to go along the trails!
Trail of the Cedars: this is a well maintained loop trail about 1 miles in total. It has boardwalks in some areas. Offers great views of the trees and the river! Perfect for a warm up, elderly, and small children! This area is basically the precursor for the Avalanche Lake Trail.
Avalanche Lake Trail: USE YOUR ALL TRAILS APP TO STUDY AND NAVIGATE BEFORE HIKING! This trail is self explanatory and is easily followed. Our muscles had several days to recoup, so we were feeling pretty good about this 5.9 mile out and back hike today! Avalanche Lake stays quite busy with fellow hikers, but be mindful- it is not easy terrain to hike. There’s almost a constant incline the entire trail. Certain areas feel much more steep than others. The ground can be muddy in some spots, so water proofed shoes are a MUST. Hiking sticks also wouldn’t be a bad idea to prevent rolling of the ankles. The payoff is so well worth your time guys. SO WORTH IT. The lake can be quite busy with crowds. We chose to hike a ways down the lake’s edge to find our own little oasis, and we were in luck. It got far less crowded the farther down/ around we went. Once you’ve snagged a spot… Take off your shoes, lay out your blanket, enjoy lunch and relax. We stayed here for several hours. Amazing. *PACK IN AND PACK OUT LEAVING NO TRACE*
AVALANCHE LAKE
Hiking out was much easier than coming in (per usual) and we found that it took maybe half the time? Block off a large portion of your day if you plan to do the entire hike! We strolled around the area at the completion of our trek and found it to be other worldly almost. This area reminded me a lotttt of Olympic National Park in Washington State- SO GREEN!
Day 11: Thursday, October 8th
DEPARTURE DAY
The drive from Whitefish, MT, to Kalispell where the airport is located took no more than 20 minutes! Remember to fill your fuel tank up in the rental before returning and always keep your fuel receipt for your records (in case the rental company tries to double charge you for fuel). Our flight was scheduled to depart Glacier Park International Airport at 1130 a.m. We have flown out of Kalispell twice now! It is the smallest airport you’ve ever seen, but we have had great experiences each time! Rental car return is done on the left side of the airport (follow the large signs to reach the rental parking lot). Looking for your rental companies sign in each lane, pick any return spot that is available and take a picture on your phone of the spot number!! The rental return desk is approached directly through the glass doors facing the rental parking lot! Easy, peezy!
TIP: We were coming back with several souvenirs including the huckleberry BBQ sauce, several jams, etc. We placed this souvenirs securely in our CHECKED luggage and informed the front desk that the items were in our checked luggage (they note it in their system)! Why risk your bag being opened and rummaged through?!
We always have a connecting flight on the way back home, but make it just fine nonetheless!
This was SUCH A LONG POST!!!! I apologize if it dragged on too much, but I do try my best to give you everything I’ve got in the way of information *nervous laughter*
BUDGET:
Flights: $678 per couple (two people). Flying from San Antonio International to Jackson Hole, Wyoming. Departing from Kalispell, Montana into San Antonio International. *we always utilize our military benefit and check 2 pieces of luggage for free* Allot for extra costs for checked luggage if you pack heavily! *TIP: these planes are smallllll flying into the remote airports both ways. The luggage you plan to carry- on will likely be checked under the place complimentary at the gate*
Rental Car: $474…. Alamo Rental for a full sized car (ensure you’re getting unlimited mileage on ANY rental). Always budget for at least $200 in fuel costs as mountain prices can be quite high. We spent $150 in fuel.
Lodging: $2,232 TOTAL… Air BnB was our primary booking source for this trip (I told you we balled out). The Whitefish Lodge booked through their site directly really helped offset costs versus sticking with Air BnBs in the area. VRBO for our last little condo in downtown Whitefish was $431.80 for 3 days/ 2 nights. Air BnB has a lot of sneaky fees (i.e. cleaning fees, tax fees) so ensure the final cost before you actually click “reserve”.
Spending/ Food: $300 for two people… We always budget $300-$400 for food and if you spend less YAY! We ate at several higher end spots on this trip & didn’t hold back in the way of splurging. You could easily curve these costs by packing lunches and making meals at your lodging!
Park Entry: We are blessed to not have to budget for these fees for entering the parks as we keep the FREE annual military pass up to date thanks to Kam. Do budget for these additional costs for entering the parks if you do not have applicable free entry benefits!
TOTAL: $3,834. This is quite an expensive version of this trip! It does indeed help to offset costs in a group by splitting fees!
Questions we didn’t address?!?!? I know it’s a lot! REACH OUT TO US!!!!!! WE LOVE TO HELP!
Planning an upcoming trip to any of the above parks!? Comment below and let us know where you’re going!
Visited before?! Comment and let our readers know your favorite hikes, lodging, eating! We love to hear others’ experiences and always love added advice!
